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Thread: Timing Question (a little long)

  1. #1
    Inactive Member GSRDPM's Avatar
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    Question

    I got my car back with the J&S installed. I had instructed the mechanic to advance the timing (previously at 8 degrees btdc with some ping still occurring)after he installed the J&S.

    On the way home, I noticed that there seemed to be quite a bit more detonation (mostly at around 3-4000 RPMS - The J&S display lighting up like a Christmas tree - up to five lights at times.

    I decided to fiddle with the timing myself. I bought a timing light - I already have the service manual.

    Here's the question:

    How do you kno what the timing is currently set for? I see all the little lights, but what do they mean? (OK, You can stop laughing, everyone!)

    I see the white mark (TDC) and the three grouped marks. Am I correct in asuming that the center red mark is the standard 16 degrees BTDC and the two marks on either side of the red mark symbolize the 2 degree range in either direction (14 and 18 degrees BTDC)? Currently, I have retarded the timing where the pointer points to between the center red line and the line closer to the TDC line - Acording to the above assumption, that would put me at about 15 degrees BTDC. At this setting the detonation is much reduced (can hear something like a single ping befroe the J&S retards the timing) and the J&S only lights up one or two LEDs every now and then.

    Am I doing this right or is it (the J&S)simply a waste of great technology on a lost cause like myself?


    ------------------
    Tom

    1996 Acura Integra 4 DR
    JRSC with JR fuel pump upgrade
    Tokico Illumina Shocks & Eibach Pro-kit Springs
    Dunlop D60/A2 JLBs (205 50 15) on stock 15 x 6 wheels (street)
    Kumho V700 Victoracers (205 50 15) on 15x7 rims (autocross)
    Century infant and booster child seats in back!


  2. #2
    Inactive Member lundgren's Avatar
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    Post

    Assumming that you are running 6psi, stock injectors I would set the timing at 14 which is the first red line. Your info about the lines is right.

    1. Make sure the car is idling smoothly at 700-800 RPM, and that the service switch has been shorted out with say, a wire, while you do the timing.

    See how the car goes at 14 degrees. The sensitivity on the J&S should be in the middle somewhere, just make sure it's not set REALLY sensitive, or not too relaxed. You can tune this as you get more confortable. As for the lights, yes, you will see lights, and mostly in the mid RPM range. You should set the timing such that it only lights up in the mid range, now and then, but not 4-5 lights all the time.

    The J&S is a great add on, and is worth every bit. I don't think you can run the same about of timing without it, and even if you could, the J&S will save your investment.. your car. I'll be getting mine soon.


    ------------------
    Lundgren
    Lundgren's Integra Site
    My AllAdvantage Page

  3. #3
    Inactive Member Turismo's Avatar
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    I was out messing with mine earlier also. I get "ping" at light-mediun throttle between 2500- 4000 rpm mostly. I went back close to 10 BTDC and reduced it to almost nothing. I think the J&S is doing all it can but to completely eliminate the problem and get timing back I think complete fuel/timing control will be required. I'm about to post about the efisystems PMS, check it out.

    Also- I have a freind who dyno tunes mustangs and after adding a Kenne-Belle SC to his SVT cobra retuned his ECU maps to eliminate detonation completely and gain 100hp on the dyno. I hope to have him help out with my problem and get help tuning out detonation.

  4. #4
    Inactive Member GSRDPM's Avatar
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    Post

    OOPS!

    I guess I forgot about that service switch thing. Specifically, how do I do that? Also, being that I did all the above without it shorted out, what are the consequences?

    (Insert Leonard McCoy voice)
    Dammit Guys, I'm a podiatrist, NOT a mechanic!!!

    Seriously, thanks for your help.

    BTW, I am currently getting 2-3 lights at throttle tip-in at from 3-4K consistently with the sensitivity set to about 10-11 o'clock.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member Turismo's Avatar
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    Under the glovebox in the corner by the door there should be a connector with two wires going into it (mines green and is stuffed into a blue rubber cover). Make sure its the one with only two. Jump the terminals of the connector, I use a paperclip. The check engine light should come on and your ready to go. Don't forget to remove the jumper wire.


    96 GSR

  6. #6
    Inactive Member zip's Avatar
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    I know the service manual states to jump the wires when changing timing. What does jumping the wires do to the ECU anyway?

  7. #7
    Inactive Member GSRDPM's Avatar
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    Well, I used the paperclip to jump the circuit and rechecked the timing. It seemed unchanged since yesterday. I retarded the timing a little down to just under 14 degress BTDC and left the sensitivity of the J&S at about 10-11 o'clock. At WOT I can shift through the gears without any lights about half of the times and the other half I get one or two lights at the usual RPM range of 3-4K. I get one or two lights fairly consistently when I step on it while cruising at 3-4K in either 3rd-5th gears. In your opinions, do I have everything (Timing and J&S) set properly?

  8. #8
    Inactive Member Turismo's Avatar
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    As long as you don't hear any detonation. I get alot more lights and a SLIGHT ping when I push about 1/4-1/3 throttle although I lessened it severly by hooking my vent from the valve cover to the intake back up, I don't know why I have this problem but I will find a cure. If you hear any, turn the J&S sensitivity up till it's gone.

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